Indonesia (2010)-Papua

 Papua

Jayapura-Wamena-Kilise-Syokosimo

Papua is the world's second biggest island and is known as Indonesia's "final frontier." This was the first leg of our trip and it felt like we had left Indo.

 

We landed in Jayapura and took a short flight to Wamena were we would being our trek into the Baliem Vally to visit the Dani tribal people.  

 Wamena's local market. Food was cheap but everything "produced" like water, spam, toiletry items were super expensive! Everything here has to be flown in from Jayapura from another destination.

 Here we are at the trailhead! I have to admit I didn't understand why we needed 5 porters for the 2 of us (I thought it was some sort of scam) but turns out they carry all the stuff we need in and out of the villages everytime there is a trip. Like pots/pans, water heaters . . .wild.b

Taking a (smoking, yes . .our porters loved smoking!) break from our trek we ran into this local lady.  The porters seemed to know almost all the villagers we ran into.

 A Dani man dressed in traditional wear. The Dani are found in the Baliem Valley and this guy is wearing a penis sheath made from a dried out gourd along with some jewelry made from bones and feathers.

*Interesting Tidbit from Wiki

In 1971-1972 the government launched "Operasi Koteka" ("Operation Penis Gourd") which consisted primarily of trying to encourage the people to wear shorts and shirts because such clothes were considered more "modern." But the people did not have changes of clothing, did not have soap, and were unfamiliar with the care of such clothes so the unwashed clothing caused skin diseases. There were also reports of men wearing the shorts as hats and the women using the dresses as carrying bags. Eventually the Indonesian government's campaign were abandoned. Nevertheless, western clothing is required in government buildings, and children are required to wear western clothing in school. Kotekas are still considered acceptable attire in church, however.

We hiked for about 3 hours the first day and got to our village, Kilise.  This village actually has a "tourist" area set up since many trekkers go on this route.  Below are the 3 huts that they use for us and our tour guide.

 This was the view of the valley from our hut.  We had hiked a path along the side of the mountain following the river.

 More awesome views! Some of the cleanest air we would experience during our entire trip.

 The village . . .here is one women's house.  Each woman has her own hut for her and her children but the men all sleep in one long hut together.

 Kai playing volleyball with the local kids.  Volley's went on for way longer than ever happens when my friends play!

 Kai with his gourd, a koteka. You have two strings to help hold it up, one that goes from the tip and loops around your chest and one that you are suppose to wrap around your testicles.  Best scene was when Kai couldn't figure out how to wrap the bottom part properly and this guy rushed over to help.

 One of their infamous hanging bridges.  We went one person at a time, as you walk over, it starts to swing back and forth . . .yelp!

 We made it to our second village! When we arrive, the locals all come to our huts and just sit close by and stare.  We do it back. Sometimes we nod and smile.  A smile works in every language! Oh, and very long handshakes are polite . . .something about feeling hands.

 So the whole valley is basically one GIANT sweet potato farm.  Not kidding . . everywhere you go.  Across the valley are more rock terraces for potato growing.   This is the staple food of the Dani and they eat the leaves (yum) and potato boiled and raw.

 

The women hand weave their bags and carry them around the top of their heads.

This guy is making terraces for his potato crops.

We've made it across the valley and are headed home.  Here is our crew-one dude looks like Tupac.

 A flying beetle decided to hang out in my hair.  Also found fleas in my hair earlier . . .

 These two kids just hiked up from the bottom of the valley because they were bored. 

 Chilling at the airport while trying to dry our clothes.

 

FOOD

 Fried cassava with bits of veggie's mixed in. 10 cents.  Everything fried here is heavenly-it's supposedly the coconut oil they use.

 Fresh fruit juices!

 Our chef in the village's kitchen hut.

A villager cooking her sweet potato greens.

 Our lovely meal the first night.  We had a egg soup course first and this is chicken, canned mackerel, fried rice, fried potoates, and string beans. Funny-we actually didn't get any local food. Apparently because the only options are sweet potatoes leaves or the potatoes themselves.

 Our daily lunch box! Always either friend rice or fried noodles with spam and usually a fried egg (or two.)  We ate about 4 eggs a day per person on this 3 day trek!

 Local bush meat.  Looked like a gigantic hamster.

 The "big" market in Wamena.

 More fried veggies. Am carrying water spinach to bring back to the hotel restaurant to have them cook it for us.

 Our hotel dinner.  Cap Coe (like sauteed veggie soupl) the water spinach, freshwater shrimp (like minilobsters!) and chicken satay with peanut sauce.